Designer Interview: Melissa Butera, Founder and Designer of DOF Studios

DOF Studios, launched by Melissa Butera in 2013, is a Melbourne-based atelier specialising in footwear and accessories that merge functionality with style.

Driven by a love for authentic craftsmanship and a deep connection to Italian heritage, the brand showcases a unique blend of modern street style and traditional techniques. Each collection is a tribute to Italian design nostalgia, made with meticulous attention to detail.

Let’s start at the beginning. Where did you grow up, what did you study, and what path — both professional and personal — brought you to where you are today?

I grew up in suburban Melbourne, deeply influenced by Italian traditions, as my parents immigrated from Italy as teenagers. While I didn’t fully appreciate this cultural heritage growing up, it now fuels my deep connection to and passion for Italian craftsmanship.

I studied both Marketing and Criminal Justice at University, uncommitted really to any specific career path. While in university, I worked part-time at my brother-in-law’s shoe factory, Linea Verde—a job I never imagined would inspire my entire career. My first full-time role was with Cadet Shoes, where I learned so much about the footwear industry. The industry at the time was so male-dominated and I was fortunate to have worked for a company who encouraged my growth and supported me as an ambitious 22-year-old, who encouraged my growth.

It was during this time that I fell in love with the footwear trade, especially factory life. I also took a gap period to study footwear design at Cordwainers (London College of Fashion), an experience supported by Cadet Shoes, which even covered my tuition. This formal education gave me a global perspective on the industry and highlighted the gaps in Australia’s footwear trade, which ultimately planted the seed for my own vision. Now, over 20 years later, I’m still captivated by the craft, proving what everyone told me back then—once you’re in shoes, you rarely leave.

You have spent over twenty years in the shoe industry, what do you love about shoes and what do you want people to know about the making of shoes?

Oh SO much. I have a deep appreciation for the people behind the craft, especially the makers. I’d love for more people to experience the artistry and complexity of shoemaking—the time, skill, and dedication it takes to create each pair. With the decline of footwear factories, we’ve become so detached from the process that shoes are often seen as just products on a shelf. Watching a shoe being made from scratch is like seeing an artist paint—it’s intricate and inspiring.

Every pair passes through the hands of multiple skilled artisans, from last-making to pattern-making, upper stitching, and assembly, with each step requiring years of honed expertise. I’m also passionate about leather quality, as not all leathers are the same or equally sustainable. I prefer working with chrome-free leather and skins with a natural grain. These often show what some see as imperfections, but they reflect the leather’s authenticity and quality. Natural grain leather ages beautifully, lasts longer, and can be restored, making it a truly sustainable choice.

What’s the most important thing you consider when designing a pair of shoes?

Maybe it’s the Italian spirit in me, but style inspiration is always where my creative process begins. I often start by identifying what’s missing in my wardrobe or what I feel is hard to find. From there, we focus on design, ensuring we incorporate as much comfort as possible to make our pieces a joy to wear.

With the rise of minimalism and quiet luxury, I’ve sometimes felt uninspired by what’s currently on the market. That’s why I’m so drawn to the confidence and individuality of European women and how they dress. At DOF Studios, our goal is to create investment-worthy pieces that are practical, stylish, but never boring.

DOF shoes are Made in Italy - what is it about the Italian way of making shoes that makes them so special?

I’ve spent over 10 years working across Asia and Italy, and my experiences in these regions have profoundly shaped my approach to manufacturing. When I first visited Italy to source factories, what stood out immediately was the deeply personal connection Italians have to their craft. Many factories are generational, with a lineage that often dates back to grandparents or even earlier. For them, making shoes isn’t just work—it’s artistry. The factory owners and workers take immense pride in their roles, viewing themselves as creatives and collaborators in crafting a product to be proud of.

This was a stark contrast to my experience in Asia, where factory work often had high turnover rates, as many workers didn’t aspire to factory roles. In China, factories are frequently seen as investments rather than personal legacies. This difference in attitude profoundly impacts the level of craftsmanship and dedication in the final product.

Transparency is another key factor. In Italy, where production is smaller and more intimate, I have direct relationships with every stage of the process—from the women stitching the uppers to the sole makers and last makers. This allows me to ensure the products are made sustainably by people who love their work and are treated well. Achieving this level of transparency is far more challenging in larger, industrialised systems like those in Asia.

Despite Italy’s rich heritage in shoemaking, the industry faces significant challenges today, with consumer demand for cheaper goods and the pressure on companies to maximise profits. Having built close relationships with Italian artisans and witnessing the decline of shoemaking in Australia, I feel a deep obligation to support the survival of this craft. It’s not just about preserving an industry—it’s about honouring a tradition that is central to the identity and pride of the Italian people.

What do you enjoy doing when you’re not working? Who is Melissa without the DOF title?

Outside the studio, my greatest joy comes from spending time with my family and my two little boys. Balancing the demands of running a business while being a present and engaged mom is no easy feat, which makes the moments I share with them and my husband all the more precious. Travel has always been a profound source of inspiration for me, feuling my creativity and shaping my perspective on life. I thrive on spontaneous, last-minute adventures, meeting new people, and embracing fresh experiences—something I’ve craved ever since my first European trip at 21. At home, we also cherish entertaining, and nothing fills my heart more than gathering friends and family for long afternoons of good food, drinks, and laughter.

Where do you like to consume your content and do you have any favourite recommendations for people, sites, books or podcasts for us to follow?

I still love nothing more than a printed magazine. It’s the ultimate indulgence flipping pages, dog-tagging pages I want to remember – I don’t find anything as relaxing as sitting with a physical magazine to read enabling me to put my phone away on silent. I try not to over-consume on social media as I find it stifles my own individual creativity a bit as you tend to see trends come in huge waves and then leave as quickly as they started, so I carefully select the influencers I love to follow that truly reflect a vision I find aspirational and inspiring. Pinterest is probably a bit of a creative place for me, I love interior design and so I have a Pinterest boards for all of the different styles of homes I hope to own one day.

I don't get to read as much I love to in my current juggle between home and work, this is something that is high on my list for 2025 to make more time for. For now I love collecting beautiful coffee table books like Assouline books that I find a bit of an escape in. Podcast wise, I love Diary of a CEO the mix of people he has on from health to business keeps it really interesting.

How would you describe your personal style?

Feminine. I'm definitely not girly, but I do like to feel feminine and like to balance girly with tomboy, or casual denim with a lurex tank. I tend to like the art of making everyday pieces look special which means I can wear them equally to work or out to dinner.

Easy. I definitely don't have the time to put towards putting outfits together, so I like having pieces that I can thrown on easily that don’t require a lot of fuss and allow me to run from kinder drop off to the office.

What is on your wish-list - this can be anything across fashion, home, beauty or an experience.

1. A new kitchen – my pinterest board is currently filled with Art Deco inspired kitchens.

2.  A-Golde Barrel Jeans…. Eternally looking for a pair that works for my 5” nothing frame!

3. High Sport cropped flared pants. I feel like these would be a staple in my wardrobe and an easy piece to style with different looks as well as suit my busy lifestyle.

4.  Platform Heels – I can feel myself continuously saving these and wanting to find a cool pair. I take any opportunity to jump on a 70’s inspired vibe. Such a cool period for confident female dressing.

What are 5 wardrobe essentials you couldn’t live without?

1. Jeans – all of the different cuts and shapes!

2. A good mid heel I can wear from day to night – my current go to Cecilia is a wardrobe lifesaver on so many occasions

3. A well cut Coat / Blazer (depending the season)

4. A box cut tee – my current favourite is my Jil Sander Tee.

5. Jewellery – because when you are wearing a basic pair of jeans and black tank top, layering jewellery in all of the right ways can completely help my outfit feel go from basic and safe to feeling effortlessly cool girl.

What’s next for DOF?

We have some really exciting plans for 2025 in the pipeline some of which we cannot release yet! However we have some big launches happening to really engage our customers with our Italian makers and the European lifestyle that inspires us so much. We also begin to launch our first accessories category with Belts this Autumn we are super excited for.